In the sewn goods industry, where various sections of material are sewn together to fabricate products, reasonably precise seam lengths and/or end points are often necessary for proper appearance and function of the finished products. Consider, for example, the collar of a shirt or other garment. The top stitch seam must closely follow the contour of the collar and terminate at a precise point. In the construction of shoes, accurate seam lengths must be maintained when sewing together the vamps and quarter pieces to achieve strength as well as pleasing appearance. Seams with imprecise lengths and/or end points can result in unacceptable products or rejects, thus causing waste and further expense.
Achieving consistently accurate seam lengths and/or end points at high rates of production, however, has been a long standing problem in the industry. Sewing machines traditionally have been controlled by human operators. Rapid coordination of the operator's eyes, hands and feet is necessary to control a high speed industrial sewing machine. Considerable practice, skill and concentration are required to sew the same type of seam with consistent accuracy time and time again.
Since such sewing operations tend to be repetitive and therefore lend themselves to automation, systems have been developed heretofore for automatically controlling sewing machines. U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,108,090, 4,104,976, 4,100,865 and 4,092,937 assigned to the Singer Company are representative of such devices. Each of these patents discloses a programmable sewing machine with three operational modes: manual, auto and learning. Control parameters are programmed into the system as the operator manually performs the initial sewing procedures for subsequent control of the sewing machine in the auto mode.
While these programmable sewing machines have several advantages over manually controlled machines, they are not without their disadvantages. The prior sytems rely upon overall stitch counting to determine seam lengths and/or end points, variations in which can be caused by several factors. First, cloth or fabric is a relatively elastic material which can be stretched or contracted by the operator during the sewing procedure, thereby causing changes in average stitch lengths which can accumulate into a significant deviation over the length of a seam. Second, slippage can occur as the material is advanced between the presser foot and feed dog of the sewing machine, thereby causing further deviations in the length of the seam. Also, such slippage can vary in accordance with the speed of the sewing machine. Third, any deviations between the paths of the desired seams versus the paths of the seams as programmed can also contribute to inaccurate seam lengths. Variations in seam lengths become greatest with long seams and elastic material.
Thus, although the programmable sewing machines of the prior art offer higher speeds of operation, they have not been satisfactory in those applications where precise seam lengths and end points are required.
Another approach to the problem of stopping a sewing machine precisely and consistently at a given point was proposed in an article entitled "Fluidics for the Apparel Industry", Journal of the Apparel Research Foundation, Vol. 3, 1969. It was proposed to mount a sensor in the presser foot of the sewing machine for sensing the edge of the material by which to initiate countdown of a preset number of stitches for stopping the machine at the desired point. This proposal, however, does not take into account the fact that edge conditions are dependent upon the seam and type of workpiece. No single preset number of stitches works well with pieces of different shapes or similar pieces of different sizes. As far as Applicants are aware, however, this proposal never has been embodied in a programmable sewing system.
A need therefore has arisen for an adaptive sewing machine control system utilizing a combination of stitch counting and edge detection techniques to obtain more accurate seam lengths and/or end points.